We've been lucky. We've been out four times over the past month and have had the opportunity to sample tapas in eight different restaurants in four areas of Valencia; Old Town, Mestalla, Cabanyal and Russafa.
The word tapas comes from the verb tapar – to cover – and legend has it that they developed so the tiny plate placed upon your drink that would prevent the flies from flying in wouldn't look so empty. Before Valencia, my experience in Spain has always been that if you ordered something at a bar, a tapa would accompany it.
These days in Valencia, I don't go "bar-hopping" and I'm not accompanying my fellow students or office mates to a bar for an aperitif. However, from what I understand, "ir de tapas" that is, going from bar to bar for a drink and a tapa – is not customary in Valencia. Valencians instead like to stay at a single bar/restaurant and order several plates to share with friends. Valencians also prefer to sit, hence there isn't a big crowd standing around the bar. I used to determine a bar's "tapa worthiness" by looking at the crowd around the bar and the number of paper napkins thrown on the floor. This is not the case in Valencia.
To help us out on our tapas excusrsions I found a book called De tapas por Valencia. It's published by El Pais, Aguilar and I found it at Casa del Llibre for about $10. The problem is it is six years old so not all of the information is current. It is also in Spanish, however I still think it is a useful guide as all of the places recommended by the book so far have been worthwhile.
One clarification I should make is about the word bar. In the United States, a bar is where folks go primarily to drink as well as socialize. You would never stop by a bar if all you wanted was a cup of coffee or a sandwich. In Spain, a bar is entirely different. Most bars open first thing in the morning and serve breakfast. If you see someone drinking alcohol, chances are they have just come off the night shift. Bars are where folks stop in for a coffee or a sandwich after shopping or where the local office workers come in for lunch. Bars serve breakfast, lunch and dinner although of course, some specialize in one type of food or another. Pubs are where folks go do drink (thus the equivalent of an American bar) and clubs are essentially the same thing as in the states. However, clubs don't get going until 1 or 2am in the morning and are open til about 6am. I won't be blogging about clubs. That was my former life in Spain long long ago. Our occasional babysitter however tells us that when she goes out, her friends don't get together until 12:30 or 1am. Sigh. It makes me tired just thinking about it.
Mestalla is the area near the soccer stadium of the same name. Erajoma is located in Mestalla on Plaza Reyes Prosper 7 on the corner with Amadeo de Saboya. This restaurant was impressive both in terms of service, food quality and presentation. We sat at the bar near the waiters area and loved the fact that we got to eye each and every dish that was served. The waiters were also happy to describe each dish. The waiters were also genuinely concerned with what we ordered and how much we like it.
The restaurant is known for its seafood. They had a large selection of typically Spanish seafood like navajas a la plancha (razor clams which I have never seen in the states)
Some of the seafood, like cigalas (a large shrimp – langostine or crayfish perhaps), is so expensive at this time of year, that they weigh them and consult with you about the price before throwing them on the grill. (la plancha) Speaking of "la plancha" which means the grill, or the iron depending on the context, so much of Spanish "bar" food is prepared that way.
Our most memorable dish of the evening was our alcachofas (artichokes) a la plancha con ajo (with garlic) This dish was essential small artichokes sliced thinly and served grilled with a sauce of olive oil and garlic. One of those dishes that you can't wait to go back for and one that I attempted to replicate the very next day at home. My dish was tasty but nothing compared to Erajoma's version.
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