There was a time when I thought that my mother and aunt shouldn't come visit during Las Fallas.  The quality of life is high in Valencia.  The weather is beautiful and it is just wonderful to have the beach and all of the beautiful sites to ourselves.   What was I thinking? 

Las Fallas, and the season of - as it does seem to be a distinct season of the year here - is simply amazing.  How incredibly lucky that they will be able to experience it.  If you've met my mother and my Aunt, you know they ask a lot of questions.  But I do as well.  Perhaps it's a family trait.  I've determined that I better read up on the Fallas and all of the ins and outs so I can better answer their questions.  After all - although I will always be an outsider to the Valencians - I am an insider for them.  When I mentioned to a worker at a local newsstand that I wanted to understand the culture of Las Fallas, she said - Good luck - that takes a lifetime!

The four days of Fallas have evolved over the years.  The 17th century Fallas were simply bonfires set up in honor of St. Joseph's day - the patron saint of the carpenters.  Apparently, they would burn their scraps before spring.  In the 19th century, rudimentary fallas - ninots- figures - appeared.  Mostly they were figures of inside jokes among neighbors - all taken in good humor.   By the end of the 19th century, some political statements were made - and the government got involved.  (how surprising :))

Today, the government subsidizes a percentage of the expenses.  Currently, there are slightly more than 300 fallas and fallas commissions.  In total, the commissions, which are made up of neighborhoods, spend over 20 million euros per year.  The local government spends about 2 million to help them organize.

This year there will be a total of 380 fallas for a total cost of  7.8 million euros.  Some of the major Fallas charge for admission to get up close and see them.  Apparently the dues to join our neighborhood Falla is 280 euros a year.  I can only imagine what the really important commissions charge given the costs of their monuments. 

Off we went to our very first Mascleta today.  We had NO idea what to expect except noise of course.  Perhaps you remember me writing that I didn't think I would enjoy it but that I would head to the ayuntamiento (city hall) to experience it, just once, for cultural appreciation.   We arrived around 1:45 and were able to get a fairly good view, I assume because it was a work day. Here we are just before the Mascleta began.  Notice that some folks had a slightly better view than we did.

The crowd around us was quite varied.  Folks from age 16 to 86 I assume.  Some of the twenty-some year olds were right behind us doing some illegal things that are generally overlooked here.  Since I was videotaping the experience, I also turned around and videotaped them.  That made them nervous.  I told them I was just documenting the Valencian culture which they found to be quite amusing.  The older gentleman on the other side of them obviously disapproved of anyone thinking that their activities were part of the Valencian culture. 

As we were waiting for the Mascleta to begin, my husband, (aka Captain Safety- have you checked your smoke detector batteries lately) noticed that the ambulance was right next to the fireworks staging area.  Yet, all the people were way back.  So, if there was an explosion, how would that ambulance help.  Good point....that's why I married him.  He's smart like that :)

Before the Mascleta began, it was announced that the air portion of the mascleta would be cancelled for safety reasons due to the high winds.  There were loud boos among the crowd.  Yesterday's winds topped 60 some mile and hour winds - so I guess it was a sensible move.

Masclet means firecracker in Valencian.  Mascleta means LARGE firecracker - or many in Valencia.  Yes, there were many, many firecrackers at the Mascleta.  What started with a few explosions evolved into a rhythmic series of explosions.  I suddenly understood why some people referred to the mascleta as a symphony of explosions.   It was fun.  After the "music" portion came the explosions that were more intense, with little pauses in between.  Then came the explosions that caused even Mitch to cover his ears.  I was videotaping so my ears were naked - but they survived. 

Surprise, surprise.  I loved it.  It was awesome. Everyone cheered and clapped when it was over.  Then the crowd began to run - apparently to lift up the pyrotechnic.  Today is also the International Day of the Woman - so the pyrotechnic for the day was a woman - which is apparently quite unusual.  The pyrotechnic team entered a big cage where the fireworks were staged and walked around while the crowd cheered.

 Here are a few pictures of the Falla being constructed near the Ayuntamiento.

  We ran into someone we know on the metro home.  She told us that today's mascleta was flojo - soft - and not very good.  Hmm.  I need to see what a good one is like then.

Las Fallas are coming!

The Falleras dresses and skirts are hanging in the dry cleaners windows.

Petardos (Fireworks - the noise making kind :) are everywhere)  

There are new Churrerias  popping up everywhere. 

 I haven't tried the bunuelos de calabaza (pumpkin bunuels) yet but the churros are yummy. 

Look at these oil machines.  This is serious business. 

The streets are lit up at night and the Fallas are being constructed already in some of the major Fallas areas.  Tomorrow I'll share some of those photos. 

Hasta pronto!

The Mascleta Napolitana is the Mascleta at the Beach.  A fifteen minute pyrotechnic display at the beach in broad daylight.  We heard about it from a German girl when we were at the beach last weekend and for a few minutes we thought about going.   That was until we remembered that the noise level is phenomenal and that we have a three year old that doesn't like loud noise unless of course, he is creating it.

Today's paper Las Provincias said that the Mascleta at the beach was a wild success.  35,000 in attendance - boosted by 30 degree celcius temperature.  Here is a link, a picture (courtesy of the paper) and a brief snippet.

Un cuarto de hora de exhibición de colores en el que se dispararon más de 2.205 kilogramos de material pirotécnico y donde destacaron las bombas de color chocolate y vainilla.

Translation - a 15 minute exhibition of colors in which more than 2,205 kilograms of pirotecnic material was set off - and of which stood out the bombs made of chocolate and vanilla.

If you click on the following link - it should launch a three minute video of the mascleta napolitana at the beach.  If not, cut and paste into a new browser.  Enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-LjR0Gc3FQ

 Last Sunday we went to the Desperta, the official opening of this crazy Fallas festival here in Valencia.  Desperta means Wake Up in Valenciano.  Wake up to Las Fallas.  The loud season in Valencia.   

 The parade took place at the unusual hour of 7:30 am – which for Spaniards, on a Sunday, is quite early.  To compare – we have been out and about looking for a place to have breakfast at 9am and have not found anything open.  After the parade, in which each fallero group walks throwing little "petardos" – firecrackers that make quite a loud pop – there was hot chocolate and bread for the participants.   Take a look at the fallera hair style in the pictures below.  The girls are in front of a temporary cage from where the "mascletas" (massive 10 minute explosions) are staged.

We arrived late, following the police, the garbage trucks and some other late stragglers like us.  Some of the young folks in front of us were picking up unexploded ordinances – or so it seemed to me – and exploding them.  Otherwise, the garbage trucks set them off as they drove by.  In addition, some of the parade participants carried little mallets that they used to set them off.   Below is a photo of a boy throwing one and then making sure that his petardo exploded.

A mascleta took place after the parade and before the breakfast.  Thank goodness we missed that.  The streets were still dark and began to fill with smoke when the explosions started.  We were curious to see the source, but lucky for us, and for Benjamin, we were always blocks away.  No matter.  The streets filled with smoke, the buildings shook and our feet vibrated.  A strange sensation to be in a zone that seemed very much like a war zone instead of a festivity zone.  But that seems to be what every one here craves.  I can't count the number of people who have told me that they are not very much into the Fallas.  However, they all love a good mascleta – especially when they are up close.  Apparently, you need to be right there to appreciate the symphony of noise and the smell of gunpowder.

I promise to attend just once, and bring you a full report.  Hopefully, my ears will survive the experience.   

A recap of a brief conversation with Ben's teacher yesterday.

• Emily:  Que pasa con los ninos durante las Fallas?  (How do the kids deal with las Fallas?)
• Teacher: Pues, hay que irse. (You need to go.) 
• Emily:  Si, si, vamos a ir a las Fallas.  (Yes, of course, we'll go to Las Fallas.)
• Teacher:  No, no.  Hay que irse de Valencia.  (No, no.  You need to leave Valencia.)

Well, we're not going to leave Valencia during Las Fallas.  We have a household of visitors coming into town.  However, as a resident and a mother, I am beginning to wonder how life will change in Valencia during Las Fallas. 

Some time ago, I read that the streets of Valencia can be crazy with folks throwing firecrackers (petardos) all day long.  I was taken back to my early years in the Boulevard Gardens in Woodside, Queens when on July 4th the occasional loony would throw firecrackers off of the building roofs.   It terrified me. 

Ben is very sensitive to noise.  How will he react to the several week period of Las Fallas?  There has never been any intention to take our son to the night time festivities.  Large crowds and children do not mix in my opinion, especially where alcohol and fireworks are present.  However, I imagine that the enormous floats are incredible in the eyes or a child. 

I posed the question to our landlord.   He said our neighborhood is not a big Fallas neighborhood, so in that aspect, life will be relatively, emphasis on relatively, quieter than in the other neighborhoods.  March however, is a loud month.   

It's clear that my landlord is not a "fallero" nor is Ben's teacher.  It has also become apparent to me that I would be wrong to think that all Valencians are inspired by Las Fallas.  I am learning that Valencianos are divided into "falleros" and "no falleros" for lack of a better word.  There are those that live, sleep, eat and drink Fallas and it is an integral part of their existence throughout the year.  For others, just as Valenciano as the falleros, they simply enjoy parts of Las Fallas on occasion, but often choose to leave the city during the festivities. 

From March 1st-19th there is a daily "mascleta" at the Ayuntamiento.   This is a 9-10 minute series of explosions.  Even my non-fallero landlord insisted I had to go.  Why?  Because the noise, smoke, smell of gunpowder and the sound of the sequential explosions are phenomenal.  Hmm.  I will go.  I am a curious person and am fascinated by cultural differences or peculiarities if I dare say.  Fireworks on one thing.  Noise, smoke and the smell of gunpowder are another.  I can't say I get it yet but I will go, with earplugs to save my precious hearing, and share my opinion. 

The following link shares the experiences of a visitor to last year's Fallas. http://www.instinct.co.nz/chris/ march 28, 2006 post. 

Although I have not experienced the Fallas from a resident perspective, I can say with certainty that if you visit Valencia in March, it won't  be the most accurate picture of Life in Valencia during the rest of the year. 

 Valencia is famous for Las Fallas, a festival that takes place the week before March 19th each year.  The festival originates from an old carpenter tradition which took place on the eve of the city's patron saint day of Saint Joseph.  In front of their shops and in the streets and plazas, the carpenters burned all of their unusable material together with the wood scraps they used as torches while they worked in the winter.  By the 18^th century, the fallas simply became large bonfires on the eve of the 19^th.  However, over time, the contents of the bonfires developed into scenes that reflected the history and the ironies of the previous year.  Competitions developed among neighborhoods for the most artistic falla monuments.  Beginning in 1901, the Valencian government begann to give awards for the best fallas.  In 1929, the first poster competition bega and in 1932, the week of the Fallas began.  Nowadays, over 700 fallas are burned each year in Valencia. 

Today, I caught the last day of this year's poster competition.  The finalists were on display at the Valencia ayuntamiento (city hall)  My top choices did not match up with the winning selections.  But hey - I got to take pictures of them and I uploaded almost half of them in the photo section of this blog.  Which ones do you like best?  I included some of my favorites on this page, but you can see more in my photo gallery.

Wikipedia has a great description of  las Fallas and the Mascletas (the loud explosions to celebrate anything)

Honorable mention to the right

The winner for Las Fallas 2007