Living in the right place can make your experience abroad all the more memorable.  In Valencia, if you can score an apartment on Calle del Turia with a view of the botanical gardens, you'll have a lovely view.

El Jardin Botanico is on the Calle Quart, not too far from the Torres del Quart, currently closed for renovation.  We went on a Sunday morning and the gardens were full of well dressed families strolling as well as many folks simply reading the Sunday paper.  On many of those readers' laps were cats, that seem to live in the gardens.  The cats were very friendly, at least when not being chased by a little boy. 

The cats seem healthy, friendly and well fed.  I read that some nuns from a nearby convent keep them well fed. 

And to give credit where it is due, that tidbit about the nuns feeding the cats came up on a google search.   For what - surprisingly - a short term apartment rental on Calle del Turia overlooking the botanical gardens. 

Here goes.  And if you rent it - tell the agent to throw some commissions this way :)

My husband is not an urban developer but has done some related work so we often end up discussing urban development in our travels.  Mixed use, that is retail, residential, and other in the same space, is a common theme.  I am so often surprised at by how residential, retail and religion are so intertwined in Spanish cities.  This scene made me smile today.

Piropos are flirtatious phrases, typically said by men in Spanish speaking countries, to women passing by in the street.   Yesterday, as I was walking down the street, my eyes met those of an elderly gentleman standing several meters in front of me.  His eyes twinkled, but not in the Santa Claus kind of way, and he smiled a creepy sort of smile and recited a several line piropo which I was not able to make out.  Gosh, if it weren't for his creepy delivery, I think I would have felt flattered. 

When I lived in Spain in the late 80's and early 90's, receiving piropos was part of my daily existence.  While on occasion, it bothered me, on just as many occasions, it raised my self esteem.  Of course, it is all in the delivery, and it depends on what is said and how it is said.  Some women find piropos to be offensive but I often found them to be a bit amusing. 

Many of the common piropos mention food.  

Eres mas bueno que el pan - Translation - You're better than bread -  - (Remember - Spaniards take their bread seriously)

Tanta carne y yo a dieta!  Translation - So much meat and I'm on a diet!

Eres de verdad o estoy sonando?  Excuse me - are you real or am I dreaming?

I remember walking in Sevilla with my mother and the two of us receiving a piropo at the same time.   Something like - Si asi esta la madre - como estara la hija - Translation - If the mother is that fine - I can't imagine how the daughter will be.   

Along the same note -  Se nota que tu mamá es pastelera, porque bombones como tú no los hace cualquiera.  Translation - You can tell that your mother is a pastry chef, because not everyone can make a 'bonbon' like you.

It's 2007, and the truth is, I'm just a bit older, and probably look like just another "senora" walking down the street.  Or maybe it's the three year old attached to me as I walk down the street.  Or perhaps my husband looks like a body guard and they're afraid he will beat them up.  

So tell me.  Have piropos disappeared in Spain?  Is it simply not a Valencian custom?  Or....have I lost my touch?  Ok, ok.  I get it.  I may just have to shape up, dress up, or go back 20 years in my time machine to get those same piropos I used to.  

Free stuff at the Spanish newstands.  "Perfect," says Mitch.  "I love free and you love stuff."  I'll admit there is some truth to his statement.   Although I would have never purchased that belt in a store that I occasionally wear, the fact that it was free -  1) prompted me the buy the magazine and 2) prompts me to wear it occasionally given that it is the only one like it in my closet!

The ever-changing series of "freebies" that are attached to periodicals in Spain is not seen in the U.S.   I have noticed this trend in the U.K. as well but I'm not sure how common it is throughout the rest of Europe. 

I explained this peculiarity to a vendor the other day (in an effort to explain why I was taking a picture of her newstand.)  It didn't make sense to her that a particular periodical, Elle for example, would only use this approach in Spain as opposed to worldwide.  I have spoken with other shop owners who complain that the practice complicates their lives because it is so hard to predict what these magazines will come out with next - and where to put all of the unpredictablly sized items. 

Several months ago, Las Provincias, a local Valencian newpaper was giving away a different type of glass everyday for a few weeks.  I was thrilled to stock up on glasses for our sparsely equipped furnished kitchen.  Unfortunately, only one glass remains of that free collection.  It's clear, these are not always high quality give aways.

El Pais, the national newspaper, had a weekly coupon in their Sunday paper, for a 1 euro animal book if purchased alongside of the paper.  We have a nice collection of them as shown in the picture above and I know Ben will appreciate them when he gets a bit older.  We were a bit disappointed to discover last Sunday that the promotion had ended, but we wound up with a Duke Ellington CD instead. 

The lastest Las Provincias Sunday paper promotion is a free book about a different world museum each week.  Mitch, the self-named "anti-crap" guy is inspired to buy the Sunday paper so we will have large, encyclopedia style books in Spanish about world museums around the house.  Although I think it goes against his anti-accumulation stance, I will say in his defense that the books are nicely done.  I was also impressed to see Ben and his Dad discussing art last Sunday evening.  When Mitch asked Ben what he saw in a painting, Ben told a story about the one hump camels he used to see when he (the three year old) was in Iraq.  :)

The joke in our house is that I hate science.  My dear husband is always trying to explain how things work and when I brush him off, he reminds me that I'm not qualified to home school our child.  (not on my agenda btw)  The truth is, in many areas, I am not really interested in the why.  I'm content to know that water boils when heated as opposed to the why, how and when it boils.  The same goes for technology.  I can sell it, just don't ask me to design it!  (Note, husband started technology blog because wife's eyes glazed over when he wanted to share....now all you techies can find him at (http://scrappyuntechie.com))

The science museum in Valencia however really lit my fire.  We arrived just after opening this morning at 10:00 am and as usual, we were delighted with the extremely light Sunday morning crowds at Spanish museums.  It has to be the best time to visit a museum in this country.

We started on the top floor with a series of interactive exhibits about the brain, human health and strength, gravity, nature, animals, you name it.  Because so much of the museum's exhibits are interactive, it is really an ideal experience for children, no matter what their ages.  In addition, there is a special one hour supervised activity that children ages 4-7 can participate in if registered.  Ben was very sad when he learned he couldn't attend. 

Also on the top floor were a series of incubators where baby chicks were hatching.  Although I waited and waited, I did not catch one actually hatching.  I did see the little chickies stumbling around their recently hatched shells.  Simply adorable.  I can't tell you how much I enjoyed this exhibit.  Perhaps a glance at the pictures Mitch took of me will show.  I was mesmerized. 

We all learned how to make the best paper airplane ever.  We were shocked at how far this one actually flew. 

Finally, there is a sailing exhibit, appropriately so as Valencia is the site of the 32nd America's Cup late this Spring.  The Desafio Espanol ESP 51, one of the first Spanish Challenger sailboats used in training for the America's Cup is within the museum, incredibly so, as it is 32 meters high.  This boat was apparently purchased from the American team One World Challenge who used it to compete in the last America's Cup race in New Zealand.  The exhibit takes you along side the boat on a moving platform with an 8 minute commentary complete with images and sound provided by a large panel screen. 

We dreamed of living in Spain for a while.  It was a bit of a dare, but here we are, and looking back, there wasn't much to it.  (Thanks Mom and Mom and Dad for storing all of those boxes for us :)  We're not sure why we needed all of that stuff)

We showed our friend Tom the beach last weekend and flew a kite for Benjamin as well.  While there, Ben noticed the horseback riders on the beach. 

How cool.  I assumed they would be used in the Three Kings parade scheduled for later in the day.  But no, we later found out as we saw the riders and their horse having a little martini break.  They were simply out for a weekend ride.  They live up the beach in Alboraya and take their horses out every once in a while.  We were very impressed. 

Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you just need to dare to live as you dream.  Hats off to our equestrian friends.  I like their style!

A recap of a brief conversation with Ben's teacher yesterday.

• Emily:  Que pasa con los ninos durante las Fallas?  (How do the kids deal with las Fallas?)
• Teacher: Pues, hay que irse. (You need to go.) 
• Emily:  Si, si, vamos a ir a las Fallas.  (Yes, of course, we'll go to Las Fallas.)
• Teacher:  No, no.  Hay que irse de Valencia.  (No, no.  You need to leave Valencia.)

Well, we're not going to leave Valencia during Las Fallas.  We have a household of visitors coming into town.  However, as a resident and a mother, I am beginning to wonder how life will change in Valencia during Las Fallas. 

Some time ago, I read that the streets of Valencia can be crazy with folks throwing firecrackers (petardos) all day long.  I was taken back to my early years in the Boulevard Gardens in Woodside, Queens when on July 4th the occasional loony would throw firecrackers off of the building roofs.   It terrified me. 

Ben is very sensitive to noise.  How will he react to the several week period of Las Fallas?  There has never been any intention to take our son to the night time festivities.  Large crowds and children do not mix in my opinion, especially where alcohol and fireworks are present.  However, I imagine that the enormous floats are incredible in the eyes or a child. 

I posed the question to our landlord.   He said our neighborhood is not a big Fallas neighborhood, so in that aspect, life will be relatively, emphasis on relatively, quieter than in the other neighborhoods.  March however, is a loud month.   

It's clear that my landlord is not a "fallero" nor is Ben's teacher.  It has also become apparent to me that I would be wrong to think that all Valencians are inspired by Las Fallas.  I am learning that Valencianos are divided into "falleros" and "no falleros" for lack of a better word.  There are those that live, sleep, eat and drink Fallas and it is an integral part of their existence throughout the year.  For others, just as Valenciano as the falleros, they simply enjoy parts of Las Fallas on occasion, but often choose to leave the city during the festivities. 

From March 1st-19th there is a daily "mascleta" at the Ayuntamiento.   This is a 9-10 minute series of explosions.  Even my non-fallero landlord insisted I had to go.  Why?  Because the noise, smoke, smell of gunpowder and the sound of the sequential explosions are phenomenal.  Hmm.  I will go.  I am a curious person and am fascinated by cultural differences or peculiarities if I dare say.  Fireworks on one thing.  Noise, smoke and the smell of gunpowder are another.  I can't say I get it yet but I will go, with earplugs to save my precious hearing, and share my opinion. 

The following link shares the experiences of a visitor to last year's Fallas. http://www.instinct.co.nz/chris/ march 28, 2006 post. 

Although I have not experienced the Fallas from a resident perspective, I can say with certainty that if you visit Valencia in March, it won't  be the most accurate picture of Life in Valencia during the rest of the year. 

The approach to Morella is almost mystical.  Morella is a spectacular walled city located in the northwest corner of the Valencian province with a castle strategically situated on a 1000+ meter rocky mountain that is the vertex where Valencia, Catalonia and Aragon meet.  Almost every street in the town leads to the castle and the walls surrounding the town are so well preserved that even today, you must enter the town through one of the six original doors.   

We couldn't wait to explore the town, but just like the day trip to Guadalest the previous day we arrived in town just before comida (the main meal of the day.)  Although I am beginning to think that we travel with our stomachs, I think we are often able to discover unique regional attributes through a town's food.  And so it was with Morella.  Our most recent visitor Tom (or Tomas as Ben called him) was learning how we travel and skipped our family meal as he hiked around the town. 

At first glance, Morella did not have a lot of restaurants, a bit unusual for Spain.  We stopped at the first one we saw, Casa Roque, and have no regrets.  It seemed a bit formal (you worry when you see four wine glasses at each place setting and you have a three year old in tow) however the service was completely unpretentious and the menu del dia was a respectable 12 euros.  Ben behaved himself marvelously which in itself is a great contributor to a good meal. 

The house wine we ordered tasted awful and we sent it back.  Oh no said the waitress, that's the house wine, you will have to order off the menu.  Now we know what a good bottle of 1 euro wine tastes like in Spain so that wasn't the problem.  It was bad.  Soon, the manager overheard our conversation and brought us a bottle of wine.  A bit embarrassed, he admitted that a bad bottle had probably got into the mix, and thanked us for sending it back.  Note to all of you thrifty travelers who drink the house wine in Spain.  If it is nasty, send it back.  In Spain, just because it's cheap, doesn't mean it's bad.  

Mitch enjoyed a traditional broth with pastry puff dumplings and I tried something called pilotes, a dish with breadcrumbs topped with a fried egg, sausage and grapes.  Ben enjoyed his penne pasta dish.  I was proud of his Spanish and his speech when the waiter asked me if he should bring some grated cheese for the pasta.  Si, responded Ben enthusiastically. 

Throughout our meal, I heard and smelled sizzling plates of meat going by.  Apparently, Casa Roque is known for cooking both beef and pork on hot stones.  The crowning finish of the meal was a special dessert Mitch ordered, in addition to what came with the menu.  Dates in wine (datiles al vino) and Figs in coffee (higos al cafe).   Mitch says it was possibly the best dessert he had ever tasted!

For my dessert, I ordered a Cuajada.  Cuajada has been typical in all of the higher elevation pueblos we have visited.  It's made with milk and cream and typically sugar or honey is added to it to make it sweet.  In Morella it tasted like cheese.  I was not a huge fan of it, but Mitch was.  I asked the manager what made it taste different and he told me that they make a gelatin out of a substance they derive from a wild artichoke plant that grows in the Spring in the Morellan countryside.  How is that for unique?  Morella is also know for its truffles but we decided to sample that delicacy on another occasion. 

Once nourished, we were ready to begin our ascent to the castle.  On the way there, we passed another gorgeous old cathedral but didn't even try the door.  We had just an hour and needed to see the castle!  (It is truly shameful how cavalier one can get after seeing so many architectural wonders repeatedly.)    We also passed an old convent that will eventually be the Morella parador.  And once again, Mitch and I surged with pride as our little Ansel whipped out his camera to record the view. 

The strategic advantage of the castle is apparent from the top. 

Ben  played Rey de morella for a few minutes and I admired my husband's great parenting skills as he took charge leading an energetic toddler down the castle steps.  Yes it's true.  Women think it's sexy to see men taking care of children.  Thank goodness it's my husband I'm talking about :)

 El Arco de Noe Centro de Recuperacion de Animales (Noah's Ark Animal Shelter). 

Just past entrance to Guadalest if heading west from the coast.  Tel: 34- 965-972-359 - 10:00-22:30 -Voluntary contribution but definitely suggested - Adults - 5, Children 3 euros.  

We have a friend/business partner visiting us from the States and we decided to take a day trip to Guadalest, a charming itty, bitty, mountain town about 30 minutes inland from Benidorm.  After just 24 hours with us, our bachelor friend was beginning to see that our style of sight-seeing tends to accommodate a three year old's preferences and we are delighted with the out of the way places we find on the three year old touring plan!

We could see the charming mountain top village of Guadalest from a distance but since Ben was asleep we drove by the village.  We followed signs for an animal sanctuary and stumbled upon the Arco de Noe Animal Sanctuary.  Sorry we said to bachelor Tom as Ben woke up.  Detour to the animals.  Tom took off to get a cup of coffee and we walked in, not knowing what to expect.   

The animals in the sanctuary are mostly old, sick or simply abandoned.  There was a bear that was the property of a wealthy Madrileno until he was sent to jail for fraud.  There was a 2 year old white tiger would lived in the sanctuary director's home until just six months ago.  Two Vietnamese pot-bellied pigs that were no longer wanted when they became fat and sloth like.  Over 15 tigers, 2 lions, a wolf, a dingo, countless birds, chickens, goats, foxes, as well as some leopards and panthers.  Each animal had a story.  Some were posted outside the cages and some were discovered from talking with one of the two men in charge.

We were given a walking stick when we arrived to help us maneuver.  I didn't find the path too challenging and couldn't help wondering if they were really for us to fend off an animal if one escaped.   The man in charge is multi-lingual and he spoke to many about the animals.  I asked how the sanctuary is supported.  He told me that he happened to know the Queen of Spain and that she was able to contribute up to 6,000 euros a month to the cause.  The cost to run it however is 1000 euros a day.  (Can you imagine the cost of that meat?)

We took this picture of Ben near these lions.  The lion seemed particularly fond of Ben and I remarked to the man at the exit that I thought the lion seemed to like children.  Oh yes, all wild animals are fond of children.  They are the best meals since they are tender.  Goodness.  

 I asked the man if the sanctuary had a website or a way to raise money, and although he said yes, I was not able to find anything on the net.  There are so many wild animal lovers out there.  This sanctuary seems like a very worthy cause to donate to if that is your passion.   I know that there is a strong element out there that are completely against circuses and that feel like these sanctuaries need to exist because of them.  I don't really know how I feel about that but in any case, we feel privileged to have been able to experience the sanctuary.   

If you want to see more photos - check out the photo album Arco de Noe on this blog.

The great thing about having visitors is that you tour all those sites in your backyard that you've been meaning to visit.  We spent at least an hour visiting the Cathedral of Valencia - an impressive structure.  I am always drawn to contrasts, images and shadows in old cathedrals like that - so most of this post will feature some of the photos I took.  Perhaps some of my family members who listened to every single word on those audio tapes will send in their contributions!

I noticed the contrast between the ultra modern lightboards with the ancient organ pipes. 

The stained glass window was just beauti ful.

It was hard for me not to notice the left arm of Saint Vicent Ferrer, but apparently I did not notice the skull and body of another saint.

I was struck at the lighting and the sheer size of the crucifx in the Cathedral but did not notice until I opened the photos how the stained glass window reflected light on the cross.