Last Sunday we went to the Desperta, the official opening of this crazy Fallas festival here in Valencia.  Desperta means Wake Up in Valenciano.  Wake up to Las Fallas.  The loud season in Valencia.   

 The parade took place at the unusual hour of 7:30 am – which for Spaniards, on a Sunday, is quite early.  To compare – we have been out and about looking for a place to have breakfast at 9am and have not found anything open.  After the parade, in which each fallero group walks throwing little "petardos" – firecrackers that make quite a loud pop – there was hot chocolate and bread for the participants.   Take a look at the fallera hair style in the pictures below.  The girls are in front of a temporary cage from where the "mascletas" (massive 10 minute explosions) are staged.

We arrived late, following the police, the garbage trucks and some other late stragglers like us.  Some of the young folks in front of us were picking up unexploded ordinances – or so it seemed to me – and exploding them.  Otherwise, the garbage trucks set them off as they drove by.  In addition, some of the parade participants carried little mallets that they used to set them off.   Below is a photo of a boy throwing one and then making sure that his petardo exploded.

A mascleta took place after the parade and before the breakfast.  Thank goodness we missed that.  The streets were still dark and began to fill with smoke when the explosions started.  We were curious to see the source, but lucky for us, and for Benjamin, we were always blocks away.  No matter.  The streets filled with smoke, the buildings shook and our feet vibrated.  A strange sensation to be in a zone that seemed very much like a war zone instead of a festivity zone.  But that seems to be what every one here craves.  I can't count the number of people who have told me that they are not very much into the Fallas.  However, they all love a good mascleta – especially when they are up close.  Apparently, you need to be right there to appreciate the symphony of noise and the smell of gunpowder.

I promise to attend just once, and bring you a full report.  Hopefully, my ears will survive the experience.   

Vinegna Olargui - Reserva Especial Rioja - 1998 - 4.98 euros.

I found this at Las Anadas a few weeks ago.  I asked the salesperson how much time the wine had left - since I don't often see 1998s around.  It was just released he said - in a very nice way.  (You know how some staff at wine stores can be so snobby?  Can't stand that.  Not so at Las Anadas)

We typically open a nice bottle of wine on Friday nights - and at 4.98 euros - ($6.50) - that's almost as nice as we get these days.  Here are the family reviews - and proof that opposites attract.

Me: The first sip was very full and robust.  A mouth full of flavor.  Lots of tannins but very smooth.  Not overpowering in the least.  Cherry fruits and a nice, long finish.  I loved it.  I'll buy lots more of it to have around - especially when we have guests.

Husband:  Tell me this was cheap.  The aroma is not pleasing.  Slightly sour fruit tast.  It's just not pleasing to me.  I could drink a bottle of this with lunch if it were included with the meal. 

Side note.  With comments like that last one, I want to point out, that my husband has never been a big drinker.  However, this wine cheaper than water phenomenon gets him a bit excited sometimes. 

Choose your reviewer.  If you buy the wine, remember to let it breathe.

Can you hear me now?

How about NOW?

Yea.  I'm here riding my horse on Las Arenas beach in Valencia talking to you!  I'm also looking at my Internet Provider 1&1.com's boat out here in the water.  I've been having some email problems and their server has been down for service.  Can you believe it.  Now I know why.  They're out here practing for the America's Cup.  Uh huh....

All I could think about when I saw this scene at Las Arenas Beach today was that cellular commerical - is it Verizon Wireless or Sprint?  (Pretty sad that I can't remember the provider huh?)

So free out there on his horse in the water...and on his cell phone.  Then again, if that's the way he gets his business done, guess who has the last laugh.  I wonder if 1&1 is his email provider.  They have had a few problems in the past week.  Spending all of that server money on sailing huh?

I love the Thursday morning Cabanyal market.  I went this morning with no particular goal in mind.  I simply soaked up all of the linguistic nuances of what the vendors yell and looked out new and interesting items. 

I have begun to notice fallas costumes.  Not just the elaborate dresses for women and girls but outfits for the boys - white espadrilles with ties, smocks, scarves and bandannas.  I was told that before the Fallas, Benjamin would probably dress up like this at school.  Oh good!  I can't wait.  Of course, the idea of me spending the money on the costume and him refusing to wear it - well - I don't want to think about it :(

Something else caught my eye at the market and I immediately knew who I had to get it for.  I have a friend with a new baby.  That two month old baby sent me a telepathic message at the market and told me I had to get this for his mother.  A belated valentines gift. 

Dear Mommy.  Although I am only 2 months old, I wanted to get you the perfect Valentines Day gift.  I searched and searched and finally received a tip from La Leche League that your friend could help me score this gift in the Cabanyal market.  You are so generous with me now.  Will it always be this way?  This gift is for a year or two or three from now, when you may be considering cutting me off.   La Leche League actually designs this bra.  

I stopped by Las Anadas de Espana at Jativa 3 in Valencia to pick up some Valentines treats for my sweety.  I tell you.  I have been impressed every time I've gone in there.  The staff is always very helpful and they are always equally respectful of my price constraints.  Since it was Valentines Day, I made it clear that I wanted to buy some wine for my husband, but if I paid too much for it, he wouldn't enjoy it!  I'm always able to walk out with some 3 euro and under winners - even if they convince me to splurge for 6 or 7 euro wines occasionally. 

There were some Rioja Reservas - 1998, 2000 and 2001 for 4.95 euros - and some were from the vineyard Sonsierra.  That caught my eye because for some reason - the top search terms that lead strangers to my blog happen to be sonsierra crianza - a wine we tried and reviewed long ago. 

Last night we tried the Sonsierra vino seleccionada crianza 2001.  It was good but I honestly can't remember anything special about it.  It was a rioja - it was fairly smooth - but that's about it.   I remember thinking  - hmmm- I need to think about how to describe this.  When I love a wine- I don't need to do that.  I seem to be driven to make a note to buy it again.  But with the Sonsierra 2001 - that didn't happen.  Surpising because it's a good vineyand and 2001 was apparently a banner year. 

But lucky us - the Vegalfaro that Mitch opened today is much better in our opinion and 2 euros cheaper.  Vegalfaro cosecha 2005 for 2.95 euros.  We both loved it and will absolutely buy it again.  it.  Very well rounded.  Great tastes of cherry - I think a bit of oak.  Nice tannins.  It has Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot y Bobal grapes in it which explains why I love it.  (I prefer blends to single varietal wines)  If you can find it - try it.  I think you'll like it.  The website is www.vegalfaro.com. 

Architects of Air is part of an amazing exhibition that is presented by VEO - Valencia Escena Oberta - an international festival of visual arts.  From February 14th -February 25th (2007) in the Rio Turia between the bridges of Calatrava and los Flores (right next to the Alameda metro stop), Levity II is open daily from 11 to 17h.  The hours are limited because this incredible inflatable cathedral is created using only natural light.  The inflatable structure was designed by the architect Alan Parkinson and was inspired by both mosques and cathedrals.  Tickets are 3 euros and we waited in line for about 10 minutes to enter.  The structure is designed with a fabric that is 1 mm thick - so we were asked to keep our children by their hands to prevent them from running and jumping.  I did my very best.  I will admit however that I think children were very energized by this exhibt and their natural tendencies - exhibited not so much by my own child but by every one I saw - was to run, jump and bounce against the structure.  Hopefully, no children will damage the structure because I do think it is an amazing experience for them.  One of the guides did tell us that the exhibit is most empty during the week around 2pm so I am considering heading back to experience it in a slightly different time of day. 

If you are in Valencia - please go.  It is truly amazing.

I was having one of those Friday mornings when I look back on the week and think - gosh - I didn't accomplish half of the things I wanted to.  It's during those times when I appreciate that I have my husband to remind me of the big accomplishments.  

This week, we stopped getting in bed with Benjamin to have him fall asleep.  We started it when we got to Spain and with our three year old's will, it seemed as if there was no stopping it.  We could never go out and one of us inevitably fell asleep or remained groggy for the rest of the evening.  On Sunday, I felt new resolve and I reminded Ben that when he had a crib, we didn't not get in bed with him to have him fall asleep.  The transition was way easier than I expected.  Not only did he cry for a mere two minutes, he mandated that I get in the chair last night when I tried to take a wee nap in the extra bed in his room.  Of course, we will eventually try and get out of the room all together when he goes to sleep but hey - little by little. 

We actually went out for Valentines Day -  a first - and a babysitter put him to sleep with no problem.  Amazing. 

Here's a picture of my big boy practicing his letters last Sunday with his proud Mommy and Daddy.    

El rio (the river) - or el parque el rio Turia - runs through the center of Valencia.  It was a river until 1957, when, after a devastating flood that killed about 30 people, the city decided to divert the river.  Today, it is acre upon acre of gardens, grass, jogging paths and parks. 

We took a walk in the park on Sunday and enjoyed the variety of views.  There were soccer games in one portion of the park.  It was truly the United Nations of Futbol (Soccer)  We watched one game and it was Ecuador against Peru.  Another one was Senegal I think with another African country.  Of course, the players were all Valencian immigrants from those countries as opposed to players visiting from abroad.  There was also a Spanish team playing from Murcia against another European league.   I loved the backdrop of the old city wall as they played!

Interior patios, common in Spain, allow you to get a glimpse of the lives around you.  All of the apartments around has have a small 'galeria.'  This is typically where the washing machine, the heater and the cleaning supplies are stored.  Some have windows to close them in and others do not.

I've learned a lot about my neighbors by hanging out my laundry.  A family across the way sends their child to the same school as Ben, as evidenced by the uniform hanging out to dry.  They also follow the school's rules to a T as the child's lights are out at 8:30 sharp.  My downstairs neighbor has a turtle who gets to sun itself occasionally in a container set on the ledge.  Another man across the way is the one who does the laundry.  Late at night, I see a secret smoker who leans outside her galeria window enjoying a midnight cigarette.   

I remember this concept a bit from living in New York City, but the Valencian windows are always open.  Long ago, while studying in Madrid, my fellow apartment mates and I learned how to say our Spanish Js by listening to a neighbor shout daily to her son over the sound of frying oil...."Javi......A comer!"  (Javi - to the table - let's eat)

It was just another normal weekday morning, sitting at the table together eating our breakfast and then SPLAF!

What was that sound??? - - - What is that on the floor? - - Is the roof caving in???

Poor Ben thought there was an animal moving in.  We were mystified as we couldn't find the hole. 

Finally, mystery solved.

Our new heater was so efficient that it jostled that tiny amount of plaster covering the pipes.

Back went the picture.  We just learned that he happened to the owner 8 years ago and happened to our downstairs neigbhor.

Glad we're just renting :)