Semana Santa (Holy Week) is a big deal in the Cabanyal neighborhood of Valencia.  Officially named Semana Santa Marinera, it seems to be one of the least written about tourist attractions in Valencia. 

We were lucky to stumble upon the preparations for the festival on the Saturday night before Palm Sunday - the official start of the Holy Week Processions.  It was 9pm and the restaurant where we were planning to dine with our cousins was just opening.  (Remember - this is the country where Sesame Street is on from 9-10 PM each evening!)  So Mitch hung out at the restaurant with the paper and a little red wine while cousins Joe and Melissa, rascal Ben and I wandered around the neighborhood.   We saw the lights on in the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de los Angeles and wandered in.  Within the church were 9 elaborate floats, all depicting various stations of the cross.   The priest explained that there were nine cofradias (fraternities) that belonged to the parish.  Each had its own float, a bit like the fallas commissions, but along the religious lines. 

Religious festivities in Spain have much more a sense of tradition and culture than religion.  At least in the overt sense.  My memories of Holy Week in Seville many years back include being surprised at how much the locals were drinking.  Most religious festivities in Spain involve alcohol but Valencia's Cabanyal processions seemed to be more focused on tradition and not so much on alcohol.  Every city within Spain seems to have a singular culture that is different from the rest.  Within Cabanyal, that extends to the neighborhood level.  Although there are so very unique holy week traditions within other parts of Valencia (for example, releasing a prisoner from jail to one of the holy week commissions) Cabanyal is considered the most colorful because each 'brotherhood' dresses up to depict the different people from the era of Jesus.

The first procession we saw in the evening was a bit disconcerting.  Penitents with large walking sticks that seem like swords wearing cone shaped hoods with tiny slats for the eyes.  Many Americans can only compare those with what the KuKluxKlan wears.  Not a pleasant image.  My mind wanders to hundreds of years ago.  What was in like in the XIV and XV century in Spain?  1492 marks the date when the Jews and the Muslims were expelled from Spain.  What were the hundred years preceding like for those Jews and Muslims?  What were these processions like?  Were they hiding their faces because they were penitents or because it made it easier to pray? Or were they the perpetrators of evil acts?

Putting the unpleasant thoughts about the hoods behind me, I focused on the enthusiasm of the participants and those watching.  The interesting thing about Valencia is that there always seems to be just as many participants as there are spectators. 

Children participate in the traditions in Valencia from a very young age.  They are easily distracted and amusing to watch!

Life has been busy with this and that so I thought I would write a quick generally summary of what we've been up to.

Sunday evening the Semana Santa Marinera started in the nearby neighborhood of Cabanyal.  These are the holy week celebrations and processions that are common in Spain and world famous in Sevilla.  What is unusual is that Valencia's Cabanyal processions are unique and barely mentioned.  We went Sunday night and I will go a bit this weekend since I can hear them from the window. 

Monday evening was Passover.  We were so lucky to find a wonderful group of people celebrating Passover here in Valencia.  We attended a seder with almost 40 people, 6 of which were children which was great for Ben.  Ben had a fantastic time and found the afikommen and got a prize.  He was (and is) so proud.  He also behaved like a champ.  One of our lucky nights since we never know what he will be like on a late night.  It helped that it was a relatively fast seder and we were actually home by midnight.  And although it can be wonderful to host a seder at home, it's quite a pleasure to attend one!The haroset was interesting as well.  The nuts and apples were ground completely and the haroset was served in balls with a lot of Cinnamon.

Joe and Melissa left early Tuesday morning.  It was wonderful to have them.  I'll be honest.  Now that we have family visiting, we're not so homesick anymore.  We started to get kind of sad about going home in late Summer. 

Ben had his first swimming lesson yesterday.  What a champ!  We couldn't go in with him but could watch through a window.   He got right into the pool, wore his bathing cap, and actually cooperated with the teacher.  He gave us the thumbs up several times.

Ben's sleep schedule has been a bit on and off since Las Fallas.  I have never been a big stickler for schedules but their benefits are clear to me now - especially with Ben.  We are now on Spring break and this morning was a rough one for Ben.  Up at 7:00 (too early for the country where Sesame Street is on from 9-10PM!)  Ben and I were going to walk down to the beach and take pictures of the processions but we had to put our screaming delight down for a nap at 10:30 am.  Perhaps a bit later while Mitch wraps up his work week. 

The weather has turned a bit chilly which is unexpected after this warm winter. And the America's Cup has officially begun.  And speaking of sailing, check out this crazy article.  You will see that there are more of us DC crazies who head over to Iberia for a break!

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2002/09/0919_020919_corkboat.html

The best restaurant in Valencia

The other night we ate at Restaurante Bocheria, our new favorite restaurant in Valencia.  What made it so great? Most importantly of course, the food.  OUT OF THIS WORLD.  In addition, a rustic and cozy décor and a relaxed atmosphere.  I can't stand all of the "nouveau" restaurants that promote their bold colors, clean lines and other stylistic notions that don't add to my food one bit.

We were so luck to find La Bocheria.  Our neighbor was babysitting Benjamin and she sprung into action when I told her we were looking for a restaurant in or near El Barrio del Carmen.   She suggested a restaurant owned by a friend nicknamed "Bobal" – short for Cristobol. 

We order 5 appetizers (yes there were only four of us), four main dishes and four desserts.  2 bottles of wine – and of course the customary Spanish "chupitos" which did not taste like fire water.  All for a total of 149 euros.  One of our appetizers was a mixed "crudite" presented as a tower, exquisitely crafted vegetables mixed with smoked trout and salmon.  My cousin Joe ordered Cod for his main meal which was topped with a shrimp and cheese sauce.  He is still talking about it.  The rest of us enjoyed beef filet or entrecote.  Generous portions that were perfectly seasoned.  I typically enjoy my beef medium rare.  Both Mitch and Melissa were delighted with their steaks but I embarrassed Mitch by sending mine back for a bit less purple inside.  They quickly complied and there was still plenty of red when it returned (which was fine.)

Amazing ingredients, creative presentation, absolutely delicious food.  Every time another dish was brought to the table, we were more impressed.  After the first appetizer, my husband reminded me of the Metropolitan restaurant in Charlottesville – the original Metropolitan when the food was outstanding and the service unpretentious.  It's always so disappointing to us when a restaurant has it all – delicious food, great service, great prices and then someone decides they have to change it all.  The redesign always seems to include bold colors, sharp and cold furniture, dimmed lights and extremely pretentious service.  Of course, higher prices and less tasty food seems to follow.  I can't seem to say if the food really tastes worse or if by the time it arrives you are ever so slightly annoyed so it never ends up tasting as good as it should. 

When the meal was over, a complimentary "chupito" was served.  A delicious apple liquor.  We spoke with Bobal and mentioned that we were surprised that the restaurant was full at the back but not in the front.  So many restaurants fill up the window seats first so that those passing by will see the place full and stop in.  Bobal insists he doesn't get caught up in all of that.  Instead, all of the patrons were sitting in the back of the restaurant along side the open kitchen.  There, we could see them preparing the dishes, and they I assume, could gauge our reactions as we enjoyed the food. 

La Bocheria.  Calle Guillem de Castro 114, esquina Corona.  Phenomenal food.  You will not be disappointed.  I promise.   

Many words, cities and brands seem silly when you read them in another language.  At our child's first school party, I giggled when I asked another parent what we were eating.  Oh - Fartons she mentioned.  Of course, I had to explain why I was giggling.  Fart on.  Ha ha.  Ok - embarrassing that it makes me laugh. 

My sister-in-law laughed when she passed by the town Peniscola.  I didn't get it at first - but then I figured it out.  Penis cola. 

Today I passed a store with pajamas in the window and I saw the brand name that made my Mitch and I laugh a few weeks back.  Assman.  A brand of underwear and pajamas.  Get it?? Ass man. 

Yes, you see how cheap a good laugh is when you live in another country?

Many months ago, my husband mentioned that he will always make sure to buy a chicken marked "pollo limpio" (clean chicken) in the supermarket, as he didn't appreciate all of the extras that came along with the regular chicken.  I suppose we have always been careful to do so, but somehow the last time I picked up a whole chicken, I didn't read too carefully.  They always look the same from the outside.  But hidden underneath and inside that chicken were lots of surprises.  

Most Americans would like to learn about the food they're eating from the label - not from anything else.  As difficult as it may seem though, I have always considered it "noble" to have a strong sense of our food's origins, even if that means witnessing its unsavory journey toward our table.  

Benjamin is into a "me work too Mommy?" stage so he was helping me prepare the chicken.  Goodness gracious me, there is a very long neck, head and beak hidden in this chicken package I said.  Twisting didn't do the trick - that had been done before perhaps  -  it was certainly not the way to dislodge the neck and head.  Scissors did the trick.  Off went the neck and beyond into the tray with the insides. 

But Ben ran off.  Me work too Mommy.  Me work too.  Before I knew it - there he was with his preschool saw, pretending to saw off the head.   Yes, yes.  It is noble to know where your food comes from.  

My goodness.  Las Fallas are NON STOP.  Four nights, four visistors for those four nights, and an almost four year old too!  There were lots of fallas to see and experience.  Every day and every night there was something different.  On Saturday we walked through the Cabanyal neighborhood and that night we went out to see Las Fallas in the center of town. 

We ended up walking what my mother thought was at least ten miles.  She may be right.  Be fore-warned for the future if you visit.  Public transportation is not readily available and easy to figure out during the festival.  Time to bed that night - 2am. 

Sunday - cousins arrive.  Out again at night.  We saw the calle Sueca with their light display of 750,000 bulbs. 

 Fantastic fireworks.  Bedtime - 5am.  Awake - 8am.  Why?  The 8am-9am EXPLOSIONS.  Forget alarm clocks.

Monday.  The final day.  So much to see, so little time.  The crowds - intense.  We saw Nou Campanar which was fantastic. 

We walked on the beach which made us all happy. 

We were invited to friends to watch a crema (burning) near the central market from a balcony.  It didn't burn until 1:30am. 

Again - transportation challenges on the way home.  After a mile or saw a bus saved us and brought us near home.  Time to bed - 3:30 - and that includes the 3 year old.

Did I say we were tired? Great pictures, videos and stories to follow.

Oh no, here goes that crazy mother posting her three year old's pictures again....

Darn right.  That three year old's perspective on the view around him just make me smile.  Yes, it would make me proud if Ben decided to become a photo journalist....just as long as he doesn't go to some war torn area to do so.  Once is enough in this mama's life time.

Papa, Ben and the "Ca" went for a stroll yesterday afternoon and came back with these.  I fixed the color on a few of the pictures because it's not a great camera but none are cropped.   All are from the the Cabanyal neighborhood.

View of buildings in a reflection of bus windows. (He's three and doesn't ever listen to our advice so this was his idea!  Mitch was shocked to see it)

Self-portrait and picture of Papa.  Notice the flag of Valencia in the top right.

Cabanyal Street views.  Notice our dog's fur on the right side of these picture.  He must have had Carmen on his lap in the stroller when he took this. 

We got to the Mascleta just 15 minutes before it's start and it was PACKED.  This was the best view we could afford. 

Now I know what they mean by enjoying the Mascleta up close.  It's impressive from a distance but I may give it a go and wait for a few hours to get a good view if I have another opportunity.

Mascleta March 15th

I wrote a post about our first Mascleta on March 8th, but failed to post the links to youtube videos.   Here they are.  I was much closer on the 8th - for the mascleta without the air show - and in some ways it was a better experience to be so close.  You can see the contrast with the videos from yesterday's mascleta.  More impressive but much further away.

March 8th Mascleta

Final Portion of March 8th Mascleta

We are so grateful that our dog is virtually deaf.   Does that sound terrible?  We think she is so much happier, at least here in Valencia.  She has very little idea about what is happening.  Our dog hears at least one frequency - the high pitched one and perhaps whistles.  Maybe just enough for a happy life here.

Carmen was always terrified of fireworks.  TERRIFIED.  She would shake furiously during the fireworks and tremble for days after wards.  It was so sad.  Thunderstorms were the same.  We arrived in Valencia and noticed that she wasn't scared during the fireworks.  How grateful were we.  It was so sad to see her suffer and there is no way you can sound proof your apartment against the noises of explosions. 

I smile as I write this.  Since 8am this morning we have been hearing the Desperta - the Fallas alarm clock for Valencia.  But at this very moment, it's going crazy out there, marching bands and all.  It's what Ben needed to wake up.  As Robin Williams would say....GOOD MORNING VALENCIA!